Toddler steps in Helsinki

A petrol station breakfast starts the day. Petrol stations here are something else. They are community hubs, they are where news comes from and leaves. They are also good for lounas buffets and occasionally, karelian pastries. They house arcade machines that old people, bored teenagers, everyone plays. They are places to be. It is Parisian cafe society in practical Finnish style. You can buy beer in them, even though you can't get wine in a super market...

I take my first tentative steps in Finland alone, retrace the steps we took in the car on my arrival, Senate Square, Kauppatori ... then I didn't know their names.

I watch a small child place flowers on the large crucifix in front of the church. Candles line windows and melt wax onto the cold steps.

I fill my needs at the tourist information, and take a weighty supply including the swimming halls "bathers are optional" and ice swimming.

I meet Amanda and slip and slide on the seals around her.